Yohei Fukuda: Finest bespoke shoes in Japan

If you’ve never visited @yoheifukudashoemaker on Instagram, and you love a fine pair of dress shoes, then I wouldn’t recommend looking. Not even once.

Finding the next echelon of shoemaking, one that I never considered an option until about two years ago, has been my undoing. At least the undoing of maintaining a healthy savings account. We all know the first pair of dress shoes on the rack of any footwear store. Usually a house brand or something in line with Cole Haan. Rarely will you find a shoe above the $200 price mark; scarce to find a shoe that can be resoled, even. Another principal I didn’t know existed until a few years ago.

I had always imagined that there were only these and then High street brands shoes (of the same quality, but with a logo somewhere unfortunate). Now knowing the intricacies of footwear, even the existence of a Goodyear welt and Blake stitch, I am obviously a much different consumer.

This would have been a fine point to stop.

Unfortunately I discovered a new point. A cut above fashion brands in style, and leagues above them in quality. Yohei Fukuda is a leader of industry when it pertains to hand grade shoemaking.

I decided to dip my toe into the world of bespoke shoemaking here, with the House-Style Bespoke line. A world I am not sure I’ll ever be able to leave, albeit over the course of many years.

My first appointment took place in his second story atelier. I was greeted kindly, though behind a mask. Not unusual in Japan, but COVID-related. We discussed what brought me to his shop over other bespoke makers, and though I can’t remember exactly what I said then, my inspiration comes to life every time I looked at the shoes he makes. My only ideas for where to begin my bespoke shoe wardrobe were already his house style. The other makers in Tokyo are renowned in their own right, but his vision fell exactly in line with my preferences.

Highly convenient.

This was no impulse buy, though. In total, I spent about $4000 for the House-Style Bespoke with lasted shoe trees and a fitting pair in the mix. Only one pair. I have another in my sights. Nothing crazy, but that will be its own post down the line.

If there was any hint of normalcy included in this article, it is not intended at all. This was a very niche purchase, at the time of a very stable point in my life. Not for every man, but I do feel as though I needed to go this route.

Most people have very normal feet. Buying shoes from high quality brands like TLB Mallorca, Carmina, even stopping at the Allen Edmonds price point should suffice for the vast majority of the population. I, however, have ill-fated feet. Not to get too specific—but they’re short, wide, and flat. All things that are uncovered by the brands I was hoping to buy from.

Going bespoke allows me to have a shoe that fit’s my foot properly, and one that won’t wear on my flaws, but blends them into an elongated silhouette.

Back to the first meeting. It was pleasant. Small shop. Kind man. Open to new ideas and willing to work with you to make your shoe dreams come to life in front of you. My feet were measured, quite precisely. Almost painstakingly so. We discussed some style writers I admired that he had met/been interviewed by (Specifically Simon Crompton of Permanent Style, and Hugo Jacomet of Sartorial Talks).

As quickly as I was there, I was gone.

I planned this visit the same day I had my first appointment at Sartoria Ciccio, so my adrenaline had been pumping for hours at this point, and honestly, I was quite tired. Still, overall a memorable experience.

Fitting shoes

I was his first online fitting.

Due to Covid-19, I couldn’t enter the Tokyo area. Lockdowns rolled in and out over months and eventually, after some impatience on my behalf, we had the shoes sent to me for a fitting. I took a short video and walked in them until the heel fell off. Literally. I had to finagle them back together for final “wear in” pictures that he asked for. I also had to send them back, so no point in hiding it. The heel flew off, and if not for the thick leather foot bed, a nail would have gone right up my heel.

Granted, I wore them well beyond what any fitting shoe should have been. A message to the curious: fitting shoes are only good for one thing—fittings.

Immediately following the “first flex”

Pickup day. I had a suit fitting shortly after my pickup, so I eagerly opted to wear them out of the shop. It was an easy decision, and one I’m not sure if he sees too often. He seemed quite surprised, and warned of slippage due to the smooth new red-bottom sole I opted for. A decision I’m still not entirely sure about, but I figured “If I don’t like it, at least it’s only on the bottom.”

This may have been a two-fold decision, because the initial colorway for the upper I wanted was much closer to a patina/rust color vice the deep chocolate brown I ultimately decided on. This was for one obvious reason—versatility. Dark brown is an obvious first, outside of black (potentially my second?).

I also, oddly enough, do not own any brown oxfords. So my only pair… are these.

And Oh what a pair they are.

Semi-Brogues, I believe named “Geuthe,” and house-style besides the round toe. I found his round to be a bit chiseled anyway, so the flat approach to a rounded finish was much more flattering in my opinion than his preferred, quite square, style. The medallion on the toe is not his house standard. As previously mentioned my feet are quite short so opted for a slimmer, more elongated “Ram’s Horn“ design.

Of course, I couldn’t be happier. The fit, an incomprehensibly new sensation for those with easy-to-fit feet, is like a glove. One made for your hand in every way. Of course, as is bespoke. I’m sure there are areas to be improved upon. As they are, with my very limited knowledge of a “perfect fit.” I’m sure I’ll be able to improve upon them for the next pair. The soft rush of air that exits the shoes as my feet enter, and the slight vacuum created when taking them off I consider a solid indication they fit with little room for improvement.

I have only worn them a few times, work has been sure to take my free time at every turn. The little time I had was Japan’s rainy season. I will have to get back in a year or so for their short-term aging review.

Until then, my ideas for the next pair will remain a mystery. Only to be seen for the first time upon arrival to my next pit stop in life. New York.

For many well-dressed, well accompanied, nights to come. Get your Style in Sync with today’s modern world. One article at a time.

Drop a comment below with any ideas, questions, or thoughts on today’s subject and I’ll be sure to get back to you as soon as possible. Thanks for reading.

-Mario

Final product, compliments of @yoheifukudashoemaker on IG